An article by Quirke Grace
It’s common knowledge that our mood fluctuates with our menstrual cycle, but did you also know that your skin’s demands change too? There are numerous different hormonal changes which occur throughout our menstrual cycle with varying effects on our body. Understanding these changes and tailoring your routine accordingly can help maintain healthy, radiant skin throughout your entire menstrual cycle. Throughout this article I hope to show you how easy it is to use knowledge of your menstrual cycle to your advantage.
What is the role of hormones in our menstrual cycle?
Hormones control our menstrual cycle. There are four major hormones involved in the female menstrual cycle ; oestrogen , progesterone, LH and FSH. These hormones all play different roles and fluctuate greatly throughout your cycle. Oestrogen and Progesterone however have the largest effect on our skin.
- LH stimulates the release of the egg
- FSH stimulates egg development
- Oestrogens role is to promotes the growth of the uterine lining
- Progesterones job is tomaintain the uterine lining
How is our menstrual cycle broken down ?
There are 4 phases in the menstrual cycle. These are known as the menses phase, the follicular phase, ovulation and the luteal phase. To understand where you are in your cycle it is useful to track your cycle using an app such as Clue or Natural Cycles.
- The menses phase (day 1-7) – This is the beginning of your menstrual cycle during which the lining of the uterus is shed. It generally lasts around 7 days.
- The follicular phase( day 7-11) – During this time of your menstrual cycle your uterine lining grows and thickens. Simultaneously follicles in your ovaries are growing. Towards the end of this phase, one of the follicles will develop into a mature egg
- Ovulation (day 12-16) – An egg is released from the ovary. Also known as our fertile period. Ovulation generally occurs between day 12-16 of our cycle. It is marked by a slight increase in our basal temperature.
- The luteal phase (day 17-28) – This is the final stage of our menstrual cycle. The egg now leaves the ovary and travels through the fallopian tubes towards the uterus. The lining of the uterus thickens further in preparation for pregnancy. If the egg was not fertilised the lining of the uterus and egg are both broken down and the menstrual cycle begins once again.
So what effects do these menstrual phases have on our skin and what can we do about it?
The Menses Phase
During this time the production of both Oestrogen and Progesterone is incredibly low. Both of these hormones affect oil production , so a lack of them can make our skin feel quite dry and sensitive. You may notice breakouts on your cheeks, chin and lower jaw. Your skin also tends to be duller than usual and wrinkles may appear a little more obvious.
How to adapt your skincare during this phase
Skin care routine to follow :
AM:Wash your face with a gentle sodium lauryl sulphate cleanser (SLS) free cleanser. Afterwards apply your daily SPF.
PM: Start by washing your face with a gentle SLS free cleanser. After you’ve washed your face and your skin is still damp, apply hyaluronic acid. Layer a thick moisturiser containing ceramides on top. If you suffer from extreme dryness during this time apply a thin layer of a healing balm or vaseline on top of your moisturiser. This will need to be rinsed off in the morning.
–It’s also a great idea during this time to treat yourself to a sheet mask.
–Avoid actives during this time such as retinol , vitamin C and salicylic acid.
Why to follow these skincare steps:
- SLS containing cleansers strip natural oils from your face. As our skin is very low in sebum during this period these types of cleansers dry out our skin far too much.
- Hyaluronic acid should always be applied to damp skin in order to retain moisture. If applied to dry skin it will actually remove moisture from the skin.
- Ceramides help to protect your skin barrier
- Healing balm/vaseline prevents moisture loss from skin and helps to protect your skin’s lipids. Skin lipids keep the skin moisturised and protect against microorganism invasion.
- Sheet masks are fantastic self care and they can help plump your skin , making fine lines less noticeable.
The follicular phase
A rise in oestrogen occurs during this time of your menstrual cycle. This leads to increased cell turnover in your skin. This increase in cell turnover and slight increase in sebum production leads to radiant glowing skin.
How to adapt your skincare during this phase
AM: Wash your face with a gentle sodium lauryl sulphate cleanser (SLS) free cleanser. Afterwards apply vitamin C serum and your daily SPF.
PM: Begin by washing your skin with a gentle sodium lauryl sulphate cleanser (SLS) free cleanser. Apply hyaluronic acid to your skin whilst it is still damp. Layer a niacinamide serum on top. Every second night apply retinol to your skin once it has dried fully. Finally apply a medium to lightweight moisturiser.
Why should you follow these skincare steps:
- During this time your skin produces the perfect amount of sebum and your skin is much less sensitive than other times of the month. As a result no special treatment is required and actives such as vitamin C and retinol are well tolerated.
- Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant. As retinol causes skin to become more photo-sensitive consistent use of antioxidants and SPF is essential to prevent UV damage to skin
- Retinol helps to further increase skin cell turnover and aids in unclogging pores which may become blocked due to the increase in sebum production.
- Niacinamide helps control oil production and minimise the appearance of pores which may become enlarged during the follicular phase and ovulation.
- Both niacinamide and retinol can be used together. Niacinamide should be applied first to help prevent the drying effects of retinol on the skin.
Ovulation
Your oestrogen levels are at an all time during ovulation leading to the most radiant skin of your menstrual cycle. However high oestrogen levels also lead to increased sebum production. This increase in sebum production can lead to breakouts particularly in the t-zone of your face.
How to adapt your skincare during this phase
AM: Wash your face with a gentle sodium lauryl sulphate cleanser (SLS) free cleanser. Once your skin has dried apply vitamin C and your daily SPF.
PM: Double cleanse your skin. Begin with an oil based cleanser and follow up with an SLS free cleanser. Apply hyaluronic acid before your skin has dried fully. Follow up with niacinamide. Apply retinol when your skin is fully dry. Finish with a lightweight moisturiser.
Why should you follow these skincare steps
- As oil production is quite high using a combination of cleansers ensures your skin is thoroughly cleansed helping to prevent oil related breakouts.
- A light weight cleanser should be used in place of a heavier one to ensure pores don’t become clogged given the increased sebum production.
Luteal Phase
Progesterone levels are highest during this phase of your menstrual cycle. Progesterone increases sebum production. As a result oil production peaks in the lead up to your period. This excess oil makes skin extremely prone to breakouts on every area of the face.
How to adapt your skincare during this phase
AM: Wash your face with a gentle sodium lauryl sulphate cleanser (SLS) free cleanser. Once your skin has dried apply vitamin C serum alongside niacinamide. Finish off by applying your daily SPF.
PM: Double cleansing is once again very important. Begin with an oil based cleanser. On nights where you will not use retinol follow up with a cleanser containing salicylic acid. On nights that you plan to use retinol just use your normal SLS free cleanser following the oil cleanser. Apply hyaluronic acid to your skin whilst it is slightly damp. Afterwards apply niacinamide. Apply retinol every second night. Finish with a lightweight non comedogenic moisturiser.
–It is also helpful during this phase to treat yourself to a clay mask.
Why should you follow these skincare steps
- Using niacinamide both in the morning and evening helps to control oil production and thus aid in the prevention of breakouts.
- Salicylic acid works well at treating mild acne helping to get rid of breakouts quickly.
- Both salicylic acid and retinol are active ingredients which can make the skin sensitive so they should never be used at the same time.
- Non comedogenic moisturisers are free from any ingredients which may clog pores.
Clay masks absorb excess sebum so they can be useful as a breakout preventative.
Sources
November, L. H. M. R. Skin Changes During Menstrual Cycle & What To Do About It.
All, S. Why You Break Out On Your Period: Your Cycle & Your Skin.
Geller, L., Rosen, J., Frankel, A. and Goldenberg, G., 2014. Perimenstrual flare of adult acne. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 7(8), p.30.