An article by Alicia Reece Duggan
Collagen is the latest buzzword in anti-ageing and is often hailed as the “fountain of youth.” But what is collagen, and why does it impact the appearance of age?
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body. It provides structural support to bones, tendons, ligaments, and, of course, the skin. Because of this, it is crucial to maintain firm, elastic, and youthful-looking skin. However, with age and environmental factors, its production declines. This leads to visible signs of ageing such as wrinkles, sagging, and dryness. Knowing how collagen works can help us keep our skin healthy and slow the signs of ageing.
What is Collagen?
Collagen is a protein made by skin cells called fibroblasts. Its structure is special, as it forms fibres. These fibres bind together, creating a “skin scaffold”. This scaffold provides strength and elasticity to the skin and connective tissues. Because of this function, it allows the skin to be young and glowing. So far, there are 28 different types in humans! Some of the main ones are:
- Type I: This is the most abundant type in the body (90% of all collagen is this type!) and the most prevalent in the skin.
- Type II: This type is only present in two zones, forming cartilage.
- Type III: This type contributes to intestinal health and is crucial for wound healing, as it is responsible for forming blood clots.
- Type VI: Also prevalent in connective tissues, although it plays a different role from the previously mentioned types. This is because it has a different structure. It is crucial to the musculoskeletal system. Muscular dystrophy can develop when there is a lack of this type of collagen.
Layers of the skin
Our skin consists of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis.
- Epidermis: The first layer in contact with the environment. It is the first barrier of defence, where the cells are tightly packed together. There are no blood vessels in this layer of the skin, so it gets everything it needs from the dermis.
- Dermis: The second layer, under the epidermis. This layer is formed by connective tissue and contains blood vessels. Fibroblasts, the skin cells that make collagen, live in this layer. The main function of this layer is structural support, largely thanks to the presence of collagen. This is what provides the skin with strength and elasticity.
- Hypodermis: The third layer, although some consider it an extension of the dermis. Unlike the dermis, it is made from fat cells, making it a different kind of connective tissue. This difference in composition changes the function. Rather than providing structure, it functions as an energy reserve (fat cells are packed with energy!). It also acts as a layer of insulation, helping to regulate body temperature and protecting the body from impact, like a built-in cushion.
Collagen in Action
One of the main functions of our cells is to create proteins, which are later involved in different biological processes. Different types of cells produce different kinds of proteins. There are many different types of skin cells:
- Melanocytes produce melanin (responsible for your tan).
- Keratinocytes produce keratin (responsible for strengthening your skin and nails).
- Fibroblasts produce collagen (responsible for your youthful glow).
Fibroblasts live within the dermis, the second layer of the skin. During the production process, vitamin C helps transform collagen into a robust structure. This is called a “triple-helix”. The structure resembles braided hair, which provides collagen with the ability to perform as a scaffold. These helices intertwine further to create strong, resilient fibres.
Collagen can break down due to external and internal factors: ageing, UV exposure, and a poor diet can all contribute to this (keep reading to discover how to combat this!). As a result, skin loses elasticity and strength.
The Power Duo Behind Glowing Skin
While calcium is well known for its role in bone health and cell homeostasis, it also plays a crucial part in maintaining skin structure. Calcium helps control important functions, which aid in skin renewal and repair. Calcium interacts with collagen in the dermis. It helps keep the fibres stable and organised. This support is key for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. So make sure you are getting enough calcium in your diet, not just for your bones, but also for your skin!
Collagen makes up 70-80% of the skin’s dry weight, which highlights why it is important to keep our skin firm, elastic and strong. As we age, levels drop, usually starting at 25-30 years of age. You lose about 1% every year, with an even more dramatic drop when you reach menopause. During the first five years of menopause, you can lose up to 30%! After this, the loss per year doubles to about 2%. All this can contribute to the formation of wrinkles. Some chronic diseases can also impact collagen production or degradation, like lupus and diabetes. This can cause calcium distribution in the skin to become unbalanced. As a result, skin may lose structural integrity, leading to dryness, loss of elasticity, and a fragile skin barrier.
Factors Causing Collagen Degradation
Several factors contribute to collagen breakdown:
- Ageing: Production naturally declines as we age, leading to thinner skin and wrinkles.
- UV Radiation: Excessive sun exposure breaks down the fibres, causing premature ageing.
- Poor Diet: Lacking essential nutrients like vitamin C, zinc, and amino acids impairs synthesis.
- Smoking and Pollution: These environmental factors introduce “free radicals” that accelerate degradation.
The Future of Collagen
Breakthroughs in biotechnology and regenerative medicine show promising results in preserving and restoring collagen. The following are some of the most exciting developments:
- Bioengineered Collagen: Scientists are developing lab-grown collagen that looks like the natural human counterpart. This could help in skin repair and anti-ageing treatments.
- Stem Cell Therapy: Scientists are also exploring how stem cells can boost fibroblast activity. If possible, it could increase collagen production and improve skin regeneration.
- Peptide-based Treatments: New synthetic peptides are being developed to boost collagen production at the molecular level. This will help to repair and maintain youthful skin.
- Nanotechnology in Skincare: Innovations in nanotechnology are making treatments more effective by helping collagen boosters to reach deeper into the skin.
Boosting Collagen Naturally
To protect and enhance collagen levels, consider the following tips:
- Sun Damage Protection: Apply sunscreen daily to prevent UV-induced damage.
- Topical Retinoids: Retinoids increase cell turnover and collagen production, reducing fine lines.
- Hydration: Staying hydrated is essential for skin health.
- Nutrition: Make sure you are reaching your necessary daily intake for calcium and vitamin C, as they are both involved in the proper function of this protein. Collagen supplementation has also shown promising results.
- Exercise: Engaging in regular physical activity supports skin health and circulation.
Overall, collagen is essential for youthful skin and overall health. We can learn how to slow the ageing process by understanding its physiology. The future of collagen is looking bright. After all this new knowledge, we can maintain vibrant, resilient skin for years to come!
References1,2
1 Oikarinen, A. Aging of the skin connective tissue: how to measure the biochemical and mechanical properties of aging dermis. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 10, 47-52 (1994).
2 Tzaphlidou, M. The role of collagen and elastin in aged skin: an image processing approach. Micron 35, 173-177 (2004). https://doi.org:10.1016/j.micron.2003.11.003