An article by Fayola Fedoria
In the quest for healthy and youthful skin, modern science is increasingly turning to ancient remedies. Among these time-tested ingredients, a powerful herb is emerging as a promising ally in the battle against skin aging. Ever heard of winter cherry? What about poison gooseberry or Indian ginseng? They all refer to the same plant called Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera), an adaptogen originating from India and largely found in Asia and Africa.
What is Ashwagandha Adaptogen?
Adaptogen is a natural substance, usually in the form of a plant extract, which helps maintain homeostasis of the body. Homeostasis is the fancy way of saying your body keeps everything balanced and working properly, like a built-in cruise control of the body. The adaptogenic properties of Ashwagandha have contributed to its wide usage in order to maintain balance, energize, and rejuvenate. In the USA dietary supplement market, it ranked third in popularity after elderberry and cannabidiol. It is also famous for promoting healthy sexual and reproductive balance as well as enhancing the nervous system functions.
Ashwagandha is one of the extensively prescribed botanicals in Ayurveda practice for its multimodal effects, including treating insomnia, chronic stress, and anxiety. Children consume Rasayana tonics containing Ashwagandha to enhance cognitive ability (memory), while the elderly use them to promote longevity, an ancient practice dating back to 6000 BC. Among the multitude of herbs making up Rasayana, Ashwagandha is most noticeable.
The Skin-Deep Power of Ashwagandha
The most important part of the Ashwagandha plant is the root. Viewed as having superior medicinal properties, people widely consume the extracts of Ashwagandha roots as functional foods either in powder, tablet, or capsule form. The next question is, what is inside Ashwagandha roots? Researchers worldwide have been actively investigating this. They have identified withanolides as the main bioactive components of Ashwagandha roots, recognizing their defensive properties against nerve damage, inflammation, cancer, and oxidative damage. These compounds also influence the immune system, with at least 40 different withanolides isolated from Ashwagandha.
Turns out this time-honored adaptogen has potential for further advancement beyond its historical wellness usage in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. There has been numerous research on Ashwagandha application in the field of general health and well-being, but not as much for the dermatology field, and the effects on skin have not been fully explained in detail. As one of the most popular adaptogens entering the skincare market, it is necessary to understand the effect it has on the human skin. Researchers are now uncovering its potential benefits to counteract climate-related issues for natural, healthy aging in skin.
The Science Behind Ashwagandha’s Benefits
Skin aging manifests as wrinkles, reduced tone, sagging, and dry skin. These physically visible signs can impact individual self-esteem and social relations significantly. Skin aging unfolds through two fascinating parallel journeys: intrinsic and extrinsic. Intrinsic aging – the natural, internal process of aging due to genetic factors – begins in the early 20s, but the symptoms are not immediately visible on our skin. On the other hand, extrinsic aging – induced by external factors such as pollution and UV exposure – causes premature signs of aging to appear on the skin.
The epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis make up our skin. The dermis is the largest portion composing an extracellular matrix containing collagen, elastin, and other protein compounds. This makes the dermis layer responsible for the skin flexibility and elasticity, as well as retaining moisture in the skin. Losing the dynamic balance between protein components of the extracellular matrix in the dermis leads to a damaged dermis, and a damaged dermis is closely related to skin aging problems.
Since ancient times, people have treated hair and skin conditions using traditional medicine. Customers often prefer herbal therapies because they perceive natural products as safer and more effective. Recent scientific studies suggest ashwagandha may help combat skin aging through multiple pathways:
Stress Reduction
Psychological stress leads to the increased secretion of the primary stress hormone, which is called cortisol. Clinical studies have shown how Ashwagandha extract plays a role in modulating cortisol and testosterone levels. Chronic stress accelerates aging throughout the body, including the skin. Lower stress hormones can mean less inflammation and better overall skin condition.
Antioxidant Protection
Ashwagandha contains powerful antioxidants that combat free radicals – unstable molecules that damage skin cells and break down collagen, leading to wrinkles and sagging. Korean researchers in 2022 found that a component inside Ashwagandha called withagenin A diglucoside (a type of withanolide) gives a protective effect against skin damage. These damages are caused by intercellular ROS (reactive oxygen species), which causes the collapse of type I collagen. ROS upregulates collagenase, which destroys collagen fibrils and damages the extracellular matrix. As we know, collagen is an important word when talking about aging, as in abundance they contribute to skin elasticity.
Cellular Renewal
A study done by Chinese scientists in 2024 revealed how Ashwagandha can delay skin aging by maintaining a delicate balance between cells and their surroundings. Homeostasis can be kept by preventing an imbalance between the production and degradation of protein components of the extracellular matrix. This makes the skin cells able to behave “normally” for a longer period of time.
The Future of Adaptive Skincare
Prolonged exposure to UV light can accelerate the aging process and cause photoaging. Photoaging results in coarse skin, dark discoloration with wrinkles, irregular hyperpigmentation, and larger skin pores. A clinical study was done by two Indian dermatologists and a pharmacologist in 2023 on how lotion containing 8% standardized Ashwagandha root extract affects the facial skin. This randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled study assessed 56 healthy adults with photoaged skin. After 2 months, they are evaluated on aspects of skin wrinkles, pores, hydration or moisture, skin brightness or tone, and pigmentation. People who used the Ashwagandha lotion saw over 50% more skin improvement compared to those using the placebo, based on doctor evaluations. The results showed significant reductions in wrinkles, dryness, and other signs of aging.
As our understanding of healthy aging evolves, the concept of “adaptive skincare” is gaining attention. Rather than simply masking signs of aging, adaptive approaches aim to support the skin’s natural resilience and ability to respond to stressors. Ashwagandha fits perfectly into this paradigm as an adaptogen that helps the body, including the skin, adapt to various forms of stress. By addressing underlying mechanisms of skin aging rather than just surface symptoms, ingredients like ashwagandha represent a more holistic approach to maintaining skin health over time.
While research into ashwagandha’s full potential for skin health continues, this ancient herb offers a fascinating example of how traditional wisdom and modern science can come together to support healthy aging.