An article by Marta Guerra González
The future of hair care is taking shape, and the path of neurocosmetics, especially neuromimetic peptides, is leading the way. The scalp is more connected to the nervous system than we once thought. Chemical signals regulate the hair cycle and growth, keeping it strong and healthy. However, when stress or imbalances take over, the hair suffers.
This is where neurocosmetics with next-generation formulations come into play. These formulas contain actives that interact with the skin’s nervous system. Among their main star ingredients are neuromimetic peptides. These smart compounds mimic the action of neuropeptides, molecules produced by neurons that act as chemical messengers, allowing communication between the nervous system and other cells in the body, such as those of the skin. Neuromimetic peptides can enhance or inhibit these molecules.
Thanks to this mechanism of action, some of these ingredients influence the regeneration of hair follicles (the structures from which hair grows). In contrast, others soothe inflammation or help delay the appearance of grey hair.
With these innovations, neuro-cosmetic formulations offer new possibilities for stronger, healthier, and more resilient hair. But, how do these ingredients work, and why are they so promising? Let’s break it down!
1. The Hidden Dialogue Between the Brain and the Skin
The skin responds to emotions with physical reactions such as sweating or goosebumps [1]. But what is surprising is that the skin not only receives signals from the brain, but it returns them too! To send these signals, it uses the neural system, through some molecules called neurotransmitters. These molecules act as messengers between the brain and the skin. These neurotransmitters activate healing, the immune system, pigmentation, temperature, oil production, and tone. On the other hand, the skin, thanks to its sensory receptors, sends signals to the brain, making it a key player in the body’s communication system [1].
2. The scalp is not alone: The neuronal connection controls hair growth
You have probably heard that stress can cause hair loss… and it is true! But do you know why this happens? The skin is affected by the nervous system, and therefore, it also affects the hair [2].
Your mane does not grow randomly — it follows a cycle with different phases. During the growth phase, the sympathetic nerves (the ones activated by stress and action) send signals that stimulate hair growth. Specifically, noradrenaline plays a key role in keeping this process going [2].
However, it is not the only player in this story. Other neuropeptides play a key role in follicle regeneration and immune response [2]. Imagine the production of hair as a car factory. In this factory (the hair follicle), each vehicle is assembled piece by piece with precision and care. To keep things running smoothly, several managers are overseeing different departments:
A. CALCITONIN GENE-RELATED PEPTIDE (CGRP)
Is a peptide produced by some nerve endings in the skin. This peptide acts as the head of the production in the car factory. When he arrives, he gives the order to start the assembly lines. Workers spring into action, parts begin moving along conveyor belts, and the car’s structure starts taking shape.
This molecule has a very interesting function, it can activate special cells found at the base of the skin and in hair follicles. When CGRP is released, it binds to the receptors in these cells and sends them a signal. That signal triggers a process within the cell that activates a system called the “Wnt/β-catenin pathway.” This pathway is key for hair to grow. Once activated, a protein called β-catenin accumulates, enters the nucleus of the cell (the “control centre”), and activates genes that cause the cell to divide and the hair follicle to develop. As a result, new hair begins to grow.
B. ALPHA-MELANOCYTE STIMULATING HORMONE (α-MSH)
α-MSH as a Key Driver of Hair Pigmentation
It is a hormone that helps give colour to hair. This hormone is in charge of the paint and finishing department of the car factory. When he sends the instructions, his team (the melanocytes) mix the perfect shade for each car. Then, they apply the paint carefully and just in time, right before the vehicle reaches the end of the production line, like a conveyor belt delivering it with the perfect colour, ready to roll out.
In other words, when α-MSH is released in the body, it binds to special structures called MC1R receptors, which are located in cells called melanocytes. These cells are at the base of the hair follicle and are the ones that produce melanin, the pigment that gives hair its colour. When α-MSH binds to its receptor, it activates a series of signals inside the melanocyte that cause this cell to start producing melanin. In addition, melanocytes elongate and branch out, as if growing “arms,” which allows them to pass melanin to the cells of the growing hair.
α-MSH as an Anti-Inflammatory Regulator in the Scalp
Furthermore, α-MSH also soothes inflammation in the scalp. α-MSH acts as the quality control manager in the factory, ensuring that the process remains stable and free of failures that could compromise production. There are two automatic systems that, if not properly regulated, can interrupt the assembly line. The first one releases signals that create tension and slow down the workflow (machines starting to vibrate, make noises, or overheat). It is similar to the NF-κB system, which triggers immediate responses that are sometimes unnecessary. The second one allows more technicians to enter the area, which can overcrowd the space and hinder activity. It resembles the MAPK system. This system facilitates the accumulation of technical staff in the affected area. α-MSH anticipates these situations, detecting when these systems are about to activate without a real need, and sends instructions to stop them. Therefore, preventing interruptions in production.
α-MSH works by activating a signal in certain cells that blocks two internal pathways that cause inflammation: the NF-κB pathway and the MAPK pathway. The NF-κB pathway acts like a switch that turns on the production of inflammatory substances. α-MSH blocks that switch, preventing these substances from being released before they cause redness, swelling, or pain. The MAPK pathway is responsible for creating adhesion molecules that allow immune system cells to reach the affected area. By slowing down this pathway, α-MSH prevents those cells from accumulating, helping to reduce damage and inflammation. Taken together, α-MSH acts as a natural brake that protects tissues from excessive inflammation.
C. CORTICOTROPIN-RELEASING HORMONE (CRH)
Nevertheless, just like in any factory, sustained pressure can have negative consequences. If the plant runs nonstop, as if it operated 24 hours a day without maintenance or rest, coordination problems start to emerge. To clarify, if our system is overstimulated (like when you are stressed 24/7), things can spiral out of control. The body releases substance P, a neuropeptide that can damage the follicles, accelerating hair loss [2].
When we experience stress for a long time, our body produces more corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH). Although this hormone acts in the brain, it is also present in the skin and hair follicles, and there it can have negative effects. It is like an external supervisor of the factory. It is not part of the regular team but shows up in stressful situations. Instead of helping, this manager orders the shutdown of the factory’s internal cleaning and preventive maintenance system, thinking it will “save time” and keep production going at all costs.
That cleaning system is essential: it removes worn-out parts, clears out accumulated waste, and renews components starting to fail. If this system is turned off, dirt builds up, machines become strained, and technicians cannot carry out necessary repairs. Key stations, especially those in charge of launching new production cycles, gradually degrade until they stop working. As a result, the assembly line never enters its active phase, and production grinds to a halt.
In simple terms, CRH binds to receptors located in the hair follicle and, upon activating them, triggers a series of changes that are not good for hair health. One of the most important is that it slows down a natural process called autophagy. Autophagy is like the cleaning system that our cells use to remove and recycle damaged or aged parts. It is important for keeping hair follicle cells healthy and active. When there is too much stress, CRH activates an internal pathway (called mTOR-ULK1) that blocks this cellular cleaning. And, what happens then? The follicle’s stem cells lose their ability to regenerate. The follicle does not enter the hair growth phase. The hair stays longer in the resting phase. As a result, over time, hair weakens… and falls out.
The scalp has a lot to say, and neuropeptides speak loud and clear: they trigger growth, colour, and soothe inflammation. But when stress gets in the way, balance is lost… and your hair tells the story [2].
3. The Science Behind Neurocosmetics
Neurocosmetics are the latest trend in beauty. These products contain ingredients that act on the skin’s nervous system to improve its balance and health [1]. In simpler terms, they help the skin feel good and look better from the inside out.
Our body produces substances called neuromediators, such as neuropeptides, which control different functions of the skin [1]. Based on this physical regulation, neurocosmetics are inspired by these substances and contain ingredients with a structure similar to these neuromediators [1]. At the skin level, these ingredients can act in two ways:
- On the cutaneous nerve endings, helping regulate the release of neuropeptides.
- On skin cells, by mimicking or blocking the effects of neuropeptides.
One group of star ingredients in neurocosmetics is neuromimetic peptides. A peptide is a small protein composed of a chain of molecules called amino acids that are linked together [1]. Neuromimetic peptides mimic or block the effects of neuropeptides. These compounds have become very popular because they can reduce signs of ageing, brighten dark spots, repair damaged skin, strengthen the skin barrier, and stimulate hair growth [1].
4. The Power of Neuromimetic Peptides over the Hair
Neurocosmetics have revolutionised skincare, but when it comes to hair, they are not just ingredients — they are true hair superheroes! From stimulating growth to repigmenting grey hair, each one has a unique superpower. Want to discover their secret abilities? We will tell you all about them here!
A. Regenerative wave, the growth stimulus:
Four different neuromimetic peptides act by stimulating hair growth:
GHK-Cu. This peptide binds to copper, an essential mineral for many functions in our body. GHK-Cu acts directly on the hair follicle by stimulating a special pathway in the body that activates the stem cells of this follicle — the Wnt/β-catenin pathway. This is the same pathway used by the neuropeptide CGRP. As a result, hair grows stronger and thicker, remaining healthy for longer.
Decapeptide-28. Just like the neurocosmetic GHK-Cu, it activates the Wnt/β-catenin pathway. This allows the hair to grow stronger and healthier.
Oligopeptide-71. It works directly at the root of the hair, sending signals that stimulate the production of new hair cells. To carry out its function, it uses the Wnt/β-catenin pathway, just like the neuropeptide CGRP.
Astressin-B. Long periods of stress cause our body to release certain hormones, like cortisol. These hormones cause hair to enter a resting phase and fall out earlier than normal. Although it is still under research, Astressin-B is an ingredient that acts like a “shield” for hair. Its function is to block the CRH1 and CRH2 receptors. These receptors are activated by the neuropeptide CRH, responsible for stress-induced hair damage. Inhibiting this pathway prevents excess cortisol. Therefore, it avoids the resting phase of the hair.
B. Chromatic energy, the tone restorer:
If you have noticed that your mane is starting to turn grey, it may be due to a lack of melanin.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 are ingredients that help restore the natural tone and delay the appearance of grey hairs. Even though it continues to be investigated, they work by mimicking the action of a neuropeptide in the body that activates melanin production — α-MSH.
C. Scalp Harmony, the anti-inflammatory force:
When the scalp is irritated or inflamed, hair follicles can weaken. As a result, the hair becomes thinner and more prone to falling out. Indeed, chronic inflammation is one of the main causes of hair loss. In the same vein, there is an ingredient that is being studied due to its powerful anti-inflammatory properties. KPV is a neuromimetic that helps soothe the scalp and keep it balanced. This is because it preserves the full anti-inflammatory functionality of α-MSH. Both α-MSH and KPV share the ability to inhibit inflammation by blocking the intracellular pathways NF-κB and MAPK.
5. Conclusion: The Neuromimetic Peptides as a New Era in Hair Care
Although research is still ongoing, current findings suggest that neurocosmetics with neuromimetic peptides could be the key to stronger, healthier, and more resilient hair. While they are not a miracle cure, using them in a hair care routine could improve hair health. This shows that the link between the skin, the brain, and the hair is stronger than we thought. Neuromimetic peptides are here to stay, making hair care a more advanced and personalised science!
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. Rizzi V, Gubitosa J, Fini P, Cosma P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics [Internet]. 2021 Jul 16 [cited 2025 Feb 19];8(3):66. Available from: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/3/66
2. Paus R, Langan EA, Vidali S, Ramot Y, Andersen B. Neuroendocrinology of the hair of follicle: principles and clinical perspectives. Trends in Molecular Medicine [Internet]. 2014 Oct [cited 2025 Feb 19];20(10):559–70. Available from: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1471491414000987
3. All Images created by the author using DALL·E 3 (OpenAI), April 2025