Figure 1. Illustration of PFAS in cosmetics and their connection to long-lasting makeup products.
Keywords: PFAS, cosmetics
An article by Charlotte DeRosa
When you apply your foundation or mascara in the morning, the last thing you want to think about is having to touch it up halfway through the day. For this reason, many cosmetic products are designed to be long-lasting and waterproof. However, the same chemicals that help make up last have been found to remain in the environment for decades or even centuries.
These substances are known as PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. Sometimes referred to as “forever chemicals,” PFAS have recently attracted attention due to their environmental persistence and potential health risks.
Recent research shows that PFAS are found in cosmetics more often than people once believed. In the study An Overview of the Uses of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS), researchers found these chemicals in foundations, mascaras, lipsticks, and powders. Although some regulations are changing, many questions remain about why PFAS are used in cosmetics, how they might affect our health, and what future regulations will look like.
This article aims to explain what PFAS are, why they are used in cosmetics, and what current research suggests about their potential risks for the environment and us as consumers. It also includes a simple guide to help readers better understand how to reduce their exposure to PFAS in everyday cosmetic products.
What Are PFAS?
PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, are a group of over 10,000 man-made chemicals. According to the study An Overview of the Uses of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS), PFAS contain a strong carbon-fluorine bond, one of the strongest bonds in organic chemistry.
Because of this structure, PFAS have several unique properties:
- Water resistance
- Oil resistance
- Heat resistance
- Chemical stability
Due to these features, PFAS are used in many industries. They are found in:
- Non-stick cookware
- Firefighting foams
- Food packaging
- Textiles
- Electronics
- Cosmetics
But the same stability that makes PFAS useful also makes them very hard to break down in nature. Instead of disappearing, they can stay in the environment for years and slowly accumulate in water, soil, animals, and humans. Because the body does not easily remove them, repeated exposure over time can increase the amount present in our blood, raising concerns about possible long-term health effects. According to the European
Food Safety Authority (EFSA), long-term PFAS exposure has been associated with hormone disruption, immune system effects, increased cholesterol levels, developmental issues, and, in some cases, cancer. This lasting quality is why people often call them “forever chemicals.”
Why Are PFAS Used in Cosmetics?
In cosmetics, PFAS are usually added to make products last longer and feel smoother.
The main reasons manufacturers use PFAS include:
1. Long-lasting wear
PFAS help makeup stay on the skin longer.
2. Smooth application
PFAS improve spreadability, helping products glide easily over the skin.
3. Water and sweat resistance
PFAS create films that repel water and oil, which helps products resist humidity and perspiration.
4. Enhanced skin feel
Some PFAS contribute to a lightweight, silky texture, making cosmetics feel smoother.
Because of these qualities, PFAS-containing ingredients can be appealing to formulators.
How Common Are PFAS in Cosmetics?
In the study An Overview of the Uses of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS), researchers found that many cosmetic products contained high levels of fluorine, an indicator of PFAS. The products most likely to contain PFAS were:
- Waterproof mascaras
- Long-lasting foundations
- Liquid lipsticks
- Eyeliners
Sometimes, PFAS were not listed on ingredient labels. This suggests they might enter products through contamination during manufacturing or in raw material processing.
Another key finding is that many types of PFAS exist, and not all have been well studied. This makes it hard to know exactly how often they show up in cosmetics or what their long-term effects might be.
Potential Health Concerns
Figure 2. Daily cosmetic use may contribute to repeated exposure to PFAS, especially in products applied near the eyes and lips.
Research on PFAS exposure is ongoing, but scientists have already found several possible health concerns.
Some PFAS compounds have been associated with:
- Hormone disruption
- Immune system effects
- Developmental issues
- Increased cholesterol levels
- Certain cancers
The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) notes that most evidence on PFAS health effects comes from environmental and drinking water exposure, where concentrations are often higher than those found in cosmetics. However, using cosmetics brings up more questions. Many beauty products are used every day, often near sensitive areas like the eyes and lips. Since PFAS build up in the body over time, even low levels of exposure could matter (Glüge et al., 2021).
Reports from the Danish Environmental Protection Agency and other researchers suggest that PFAS may enter the body through additional exposure routes, including lip products that may be accidentally ingested. Together, these findings suggest that multiple exposure routes may contribute to PFAS accumulation in the body, especially in the blood and organs, showing the importance of continued research.
Environmental Impact of PFAS in Cosmetics
Figure 3. Pathway illustrating how PFAS from cosmetic products can enter wastewater systems, accumulate in the environment, and contribute to human exposure.
Another major concern with PFAS in cosmetics is not just how they affect people, but also how they harm the environment and food web.
As shown in Figure 3, PFAS from cosmetics can move through wastewater systems and accumulate in the environment before eventually reaching humans. This pathway highlights how everyday product use can contribute to broader environmental contamination.
Traditional wastewater treatment plants are not designed to effectively remove PFAS. As a result, these chemicals can enter:
- Rivers and lakes
- Soil
- Drinking water sources
Over time, PFAS can build up in the environment and in animals. Research discussed in The High Persistence of PFAS Is Sufficient for Their Management as a Chemical Class reported PFAS contamination in fish, birds, and mammals worldwide, including remote regions such as the Arctic. Because PFAS persist in the environment, scientists and policymakers are working to reduce their use across many industries, including cosmetics.
Efforts to address this include restricting the use of PFAS in products, improving wastewater treatment methods, and developing safer alternative ingredients that can replace PFAS in formulations (European Commission / EcoMundo, 2024).
Regulation of PFAS in Cosmetics
Governments around the world are beginning to address PFAS contamination, but the rules vary widely.
United States
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has started investigating PFAS in cosmetics. Some states have also introduced laws that restrict the intentional use of PFAS in cosmetic products.
For example, certain state regulations will prohibit the sale of cosmetics containing intentionally added PFAS in the coming years.
European Union
The European Union has taken a more precautionary approach. Regulators are currently evaluating a broad restriction on PFAS under the REACH regulation, which could potentially affect many industries, including cosmetics.
Several European countries have also proposed group restrictions covering thousands of PFAS compounds, rather than regulating them individually.
Global trends
Overall, agencies are working toward more transparency, improved testing, and potential limits on PFAS in products people use. But since thousands of different PFAS chemicals exist, regulating them is complex.
How Consumers Can Reduce Exposure
While research is ongoing, those who want to decrease their exposure to PFAS in cosmetics can try a few simple steps.
1. Check ingredient lists
Some PFAS compounds may appear with names containing:
- “fluoro”
- “perfluoro”
- “polyfluoro”
However, not all PFAS are easy to spot on labels.
2. Avoid highly water-resistant products
Products advertised as “long-lasting” or “waterproof” are more likely to contain PFAS.
3. Follow regulatory updates
As scientists learn more, regulations around PFAS are likely to continue evolving. Staying updated can help consumers make safer choices and better understand which products are changing over time.
For those working with cosmetic ingredients, it is also important to be aware of PFAS and consider avoiding their use or replacing them with safer alternatives, such as acrylate copolymers, polyurethane-based polymers, silicones, or silica, when possible.
4. Support transparency
When more people are aware, companies and regulators are more likely to share ingredient information and improve product safety. Public awareness can also be strengthened through educational and outreach campaigns that inform both consumers and industry professionals about PFAS and their potential risks, as seen in initiatives by agencies such as the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the European Chemicals Agency.
The Future Without PFAS in Cosmetics
Cosmetic companies are increasingly exploring alternative ingredients that can deliver similar performance while being less persistent in the environment. The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) has highlighted alternatives such as silicones, silica, and non-fluorinated polymers that may help reduce reliance on PFAS in cosmetics.
New developments in green chemistry and product science could help make cosmetics that work well and are better for our bodies and the environment. For more information on PFAS in cosmetics, the FDA provides a helpful overview.
Looking Ahead
PFAS have helped make modern cosmetics more durable, water-resistant, and smooth. However, their extreme stability is also what raises environmental and health concerns.
Research suggests that PFAS may be present in more cosmetic products than previously thought, and their long-term health and environmental effects are still being studied.
As awareness of PFAS grows, the cosmetic industry faces a key challenge: maintaining product performance while reducing the use of chemicals that persist in the environment. Developing effective alternatives is an active area of research, as formulators work to balance performance with environmental safety.
Understanding PFAS is an important first step toward making more informed choices, both for consumers and for the future of cosmetic science. Consumers can begin by checking ingredient labels and staying updated on new research. Even small increases in awareness can contribute to safer and more sustainable product use.
References
Cousins, I. T., DeWitt, J. C., Glüge, J., Goldenman, G., Herzke, D., Lohmann, R., Ng, C. A., Scheringer, M., Trier, X., & Wang, Z. (2022). The high persistence of PFAS is sufficient for their management as a chemical class. Environmental Science: Processes & Impacts. https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlehtml/2022/em/d2em00123c
European Food Safety Authority (EFSA). (2020). Risk to human health related to the presence of perfluoroalkyl substances in food. EFSA Journal. https://doi.org/10.2903/j.efsa.2020.6223
Glüge, J., Scheringer, M., Cousins, I. T., DeWitt, J. C., Goldenman, G., Herzke, D., Lohmann, R., Ng, C. A., Trier, X., & Wang, Z. (2021). An overview of the uses of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Environmental Science & Technology Letters. https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.estlett.1c00240